Weed and Insect Control through the Use of Companion Plants
Its deadly action works only on starch roots and has no impact on woody types like roses, fruit bushes, and shrubs. Where it had developed, the soil was enriched as well as cleansed, its consistency became refined and lumps of soil ended up being broken up. Particular attention ought to be taken while using this marigold simply because it may kill vegetable crops and it gives off toxic excretions. Assessments need to be carried out to figure out how long the affect of these excretions remains with the soil. Nevertheless to purify a soil of harmful weeds and in so doing get it prepared for vegetables, Tagetes minuta seems to be a beneficial plant.
The more “unpleasant” plants there are in the garden, the quicker bad insects will get the concept that your garden is not a friendly place to eat and reproduce. Using a vast number of herbs also fits in with the variety of plant life preferred by nature. Quite a bit more analysis needs to be carried out to decide upon the most suitable ages for control plants and the quantity of control plants per bed. Too little plants will not control an pest problem, and too many may possibly reduce your yields.
Some insect controls are:
- Whiteflies: Marigolds—but not pot marigolds (calendula)and flowering tobacco. The first are understood to emit substances from their roots that the other plants absorb. When the whiteflies suck on the other plants, they assume they are on a strong-tasting marigold and depart. The flowering tobacco plant has a sticky substance on the bottom of its foliage to which whiteflies stick and die when the come for a meal.
- Ants: Spearmint, tansy, and pennyroyal. Mint frequently attracts whiteflies so you may want to plant a few marigolds for control, but not so numerous as to perhaps impair the flavor of the mint and certainly not one of the more toxic marigolds. This is another area for compromise. A a small amount of bugs are most likely much less of a challenge than mint with a unusual flavor.
- Nematodes and root pests: Mexican marigold (Tagetesminuta) gets rid of all varieties of destructive eelworms, wireworms, millipedes and various root-eating pests from its vicinity. The French marigold, Tagetes patula, removes some plant-destroying nematodes at up to a range of three feet. Beneficial eelwoms which do not nourish on healthy roots are not affected.
- Aphids: Yellow nasturtiums are a distraction for black aphids. They can be planted next to the base of tomatoes for this reason. Dispose of the plants and aphids before the insects begin to produce young with wings. Spearmint, stinging nettle, southernwood, and garlic help repel aphids.
- Tomato worms: Borage allegedly helps keep away tomato worms and/or serves as a decoy. Its blue flowers also attract bees.
Gophers—Elderberry cuttings positioned in gopher holes and runs purportedly keep away these critters. Daffodils, castor beans, and gopher plant (Euphorbia lathyrus) are all toxic to gophers. Be careful with the latter two, however, as they are also very poisonous to children, especially infants.
Sow thistle attracts birds. A number of birds are vegetarian, and some are omnivorous. The omnivorous birds may perhaps stay for a main course of bugs after a seed snack. If you are having problems with birds consuming the berries in your berry patch, you could assemble a wren house in the middle of it. Wrens are insectivores, and they will not trouble the berries. However they will assault any bird, however large, that comes close to their nest.
Companion planting in all its facets can be an intricate and confusing exercise—if you worry too much about the particulars. Nature is complicated. We can only lend a hand and guess at much of what we do. As you acquire additional knowledge and enhance a sensitivity and sentiment for gardening, additional companion planting procedures will become obvious. Do not let too much planning ruin the joy and excitement of working with companion plants.